TIGER TEMPLE

By Lillie
Catch more of her adventures at http://lmarshallworld.blogspot.com
Note to my sweet Mother: This article recounts another thing that SEEMS terrifying and dangerous, but is actually a very well-regulated and safe Thai tourist mecca. Don't be worried!
The woman's tiny, tan hand holds yours protectively. The dusty walls of Tiger Canyon slope down to where you stand... you, and thirty giant adult tigers.
"You hand him your camera, and we go," the woman says firmly. "You follow me close."
And you are off. The woman tugs you right up behind the first looming mountain of orange and black fur and places your hand firmly on the tiger's back. "Pat STRONG," she commands. You must show the tiger confidence, or he will whirl around. "Smile!" you hear, and look up in time for the man to snap three photos of you.
The woman's hand is on yours again, and you are pulled past a German tourist couple to a rock with TWO giant tigers. "Sit here," your guide says, patting the rock with the tigers. "Pat FIRM." You put your hands out and stare in utter shock at what you're doing. "Smile!" the man hollers. Click, click!
"Never show your back to a tiger, remember!" the woman says, and she leads you to pose with FIVE more monstrously gorgeous specimens. One flips around and snarls, and the woman leaps forward to yank you back to safety. The thick chains strain and rattle.

Much to your surprise, you WILL emerge, ten minutes later, with all limbs intact. You also will emerge with a hundred unbelievable photos on your camera, and a huge smile and handshake of gratitude to your Thai tiger handler guides.
WHAT AN EXPERIENCE. If you are anywhere in Thailand, the Tiger Temple is NOT to be missed. It is a smooth two hour drive from Bangkok, and you can get there on your own and pay the very worthwhile 500 Baht ($16) entrance fee, or book it as a package day tour, as we did.

So what in the name of all the creatures in Noah's Ark IS this Tiger Temple? The first thing to remember is that it is an ACTUAL TEMPLE, run by monks in their saffron orange robes. This means that you must dress conservatively to visit. While you're selecting your wardrobe, nix the bright colors like red, as you will be... how shall I put this... eaten.
Let us turn now to the official pamphlet for a further (utterly delightful) explanation of the Tiger Temple. "Since its opening in 1994, Wat Pa Luangta Bua gained a reputation as a wildlife sanctuary. It started with an injured jungle fowl given to the monk by the villagers. Then peacocks came, attracted by the calls of the, by then, rather large colony of jungle fowl. An injured wild boar stumbled in to the monastery and the monks cared for him until he could be released back into the forest. The next day he came back, followed by his family group of about ten animals. Now a countless number of wild boar find shelter in the monastery. Villagers also started to bring in unwanted pets. All these animals are roaming the grounds of the monastery freely."

Wait, so there are a million OTHER animals sauntering, un-caged, around the Tiger Temple? Ooh yes. It is quite the feeling to walk down the path right next to a camel, four wild boars, a cattle herd, and three deer. But what about the TIGERS? Read on in the lovely pamphlet.
"The first tiger cub arrived in the monastery in February 1999. It was a female cub of Indochinese tiger subspecies, and her condition was very poor. When she was only a few months old her mother was killed by poachers near the Thai-Burma border. The cub was sold to a wealthy Bangkok resident who ordered her stuffed. A local was hired to do the job, which fortunately he did not finish. When she arrived to the monastery she was frail and terrified of the slightest sound. Under the loving care of the monks the cub recovered, but in July 1999 she fell seriously ill and died. People who knew about the incident did not want to see another cub mistreated again. However, it was not to be."
Ahh!! So the Tiger Temple is not just a heartless tourist machine. It is a legitimate religious site and extremely important nature preserve. Keep reading.

"The monastery is situated in Kanchanaburi province-- an area lying adjacent to Burma. The Western Forest Complex that stretches along the border is the largest protected area in Asia and believed to be the home of the largest surviving tiger population in the region. Unfortunately, while this area is protected, poaching still occurs rather frequently. A Thai poacher can get up to U.S. $5,800 for killing a tiger, several years' salary for a farmer. Just a few weeks after the first cub died in the monastery, two healthy male cubs intercepted from the poachers were brought to the monks. A few weeks later the local villagers presented another two male cubs. And soon after, the border police patrol intercepted cubs held by poachers. The Abbot welcomed the animals and as he had no previous experience in looking after large carnivores, he had to learn on the job. As the years went by, the tigers grew up and to the Abbot's surprise and delight, started to reproduce."
Unbelievable. There now are hundreds of blue-uniformed Thai and Western workers helping the monks care for the animals, and several larger animal habitats are under construction thanks to the funds from the fascinated tourists pouring in each day.
A question posed in the pamphlet is perhaps on your mind, too. "Q: Why are the tigers so calm? Are they drugged? A: All our tigers have been hand-raised and imprinted to humans and therefore have no fear of people. The "fierce" behavior often associated with captive tigers is caused by placing wild animals in stressful conditions of the captive environment. Our tigers have been regularly handled from a very early age and thus become desensitized to being touched by people."

Ahem. Please note... the second half of the question is not directly answered in the pamphlet. Several times, we saw monks feeding the eager tigers some pills from a white packet, but as we cannot read Thai, these could either be opiates, vitamins, or breath freshener.
Regardless, nearly every traveler in this wonderful country has raved about how AMAZING the Tiger Temple is, and I heartily join in.
What a fantastic day!

Elephants, a Leopard Cub, and the River Kwai

By Lillie
Catch more of her adventures at http://lmarshallworld.blogspot.com
My mind is blown by the supreme machine that is the Thai tourist industry. For varying prices between 2000 Baht ($65) and much less, a visitor to Bangkok can construct any permutation of day excursion... and the result will be giddy happiness and 300 new photos on your camera.
Yesterday, my partner in crime and I opted for the following package, graciously coordinated by our Lub-d hostel tour rep: 1) The Bridge Over the River Kwai, 2) Lunch and bamboo raft down the river, 3) Elephant ride, 4) Waterfall, 5) Tiger Temple. Let's just say that this was one of the most amazing days of my life. Come join!

1. The minivian picks you up at your hostel, then zooms around Bangkok to pick up the other tour-goers. Each of you gets a combination of colored stickers to identify your package combination. We got purple and gold! You drive through the green hills for two hours until you reach the border with Myanmar.
2. The Bridge over the River Kwai! Perhaps you have seen the movie. Until I read the signs on the walls, however, I did not understand the tragedy of the story. During World War II, Japanese invaders forced tens of thousands of Dutch and American prisoners of war to construct a railway shortcut for war supplies. Over 13,000 POWs died during the effort. After Allied bombing destroyed the bridges, the structures were re-built, along with a museum, and an extremely well-maintained graveyard for those whose lives were stolen.
Here's a tip: Instead of paying the 40 Baht to enter the museum, read the murals along the walls, and walk all the way across the bridge and back. Careful of the gaping holes, and leap to the the side platform when the train comes whizzing past! Then-- find the man with the leopard cub and teenage tiger. Pay the 100 Baht to cuddle the most gorgeous beast in the world and take some photos worth far more than the $3 charge. WOW. (Thanks to my hostel roommate, Kathy, for this suggestion!)

Another tip: Probably best NOT to try "A kind of Chinese dish" or "Pork blood with rices" at the Kwai food stand.
3. River raft lunch! Drive for half an hour down the river, take off your shoes, then rock along on a floating bamboo restaurant whilst nibbling upon Thai curry. Then slip into benches on graceful bamboo rafts and be cradled by the current! Adie got a leech on his foot but rapidly pulled it off. Ooo-- down and dirty with the jungle.

4. ELEPHANT RIDE. HOLY HEAVEN. Elephants are HUGE. Stand on its prickly back to get on and watch how its leathery, freckled ear flips and flops! There is a hilariously sassy Thai teenager sitting sloppily on the giant's head; how he stays perfectly balanced is a wonder. Tromp through the electric green jungle and see the purple mountains in the distance. There are yellow and purple and black butterflies! Watch the elephant in front of you stop to pee for ten minutes ("too much Chang beer," says your driver), and then watch the animal eat half a tree. Your sassy driver may or may not start sassing the other drivers, calling them "Ladyboys". Hand your camera to an assistant who will take your photo. Want another fantastic photo op? 20 Baht (75 cents) buys you bananas and mangos to feed that snout. AMAZING.
5. Saiyok Noi Waterfall. It's just you and the gleeful Thai second graders in their collared purple uniforms, frolicking around the cascading waterfall and blazingly green park! It's really lovely; walk up to the top of the outlook.
The absolute best part, however, is the sign that says "DON'T CLAMBING UP"... in front of a million wee Thai boys climbing right up that slick waterfall. :) Want a snack? Rows and rows of vendors sell freshly fried banana chips. Your tour guide says: "Meet back here in forty minutes", and points right to the center of the highway. Opt to wait at the side of the road instead, when the time comes, and get shuffled (coordinated by your sticker color) into a third van with rather abrasive middle-aged Australian ladies who are talking smack about America. Keep your mouth shut so they don't hear your accent.
Tired? No, actually you're not, because you are SO EXCITED AND HAPPY. Everything is coordinated and timed so smoothly, and the short drives between stops afford delicious nap breaks.
Now hold on to your hats, kiddies, and make sure you aren't wearing red, because you know what's next? That's right...
6. TIGER TEMPLE!!! You'll have to see the next post for this one. My heart is racing with joy again just thinking about it...